Body horror and the beauty industry may seem like an odd combination. Considering the extreme measures people take to meet unrealistic standards, the two aren’t as far apart as one might assume. The Substance has the biting satire of Death Becomes Her mixed with the disgusting imagery of David Cronenberg’s The Fly. Coralie Fargeat’s film stands on its own as an instant horror classic, however. That’s not to say it’ll be for everyone. If the CinemaScore exceeds a B-, it’ll be a victory. Even those who think they’ve seen everything might be unprepared for how hard The Substance goes. As the experience comes full circle, though, genre fans will be oozing with admiration for Fargeat’s bonkers yet brutally honest vision.
Demi Moore reminds us why she became a movie star, giving a career-best performance as Elisabeth Sparkle. It’s unclear if that’s just a stage name, although given the surreal universe Fargeat creates, maybe it’s her real name. Either way, Elisabeth’s career is mirrored by her star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Once shiny and new, the star is now cracked and covered in litter. Those who pass the star only vaguely recognize her name. Elizabeth hangs onto her fame as the host of an aerobics show. Once she hits 50, the network wastes no time handing her a pink slip. Elizabeth is compelled to revive her career and youth through a mysterious new drug called the Substance. The drug works miracles, but if you’ve seen Tales from the Crypt, you know that tragic irony is involved.
Some may draw parallels between Elizabeth and Moore’s life. This feels unwarranted, as Elizabeth’s insecurities are universal, especially for those in the limelight. That said, Moore has gone underappreciated as an actress in the past. While she never stopped acting, most would agree her most high-profile roles were from the 90s and early 2000s. Moore comes back with a vengeance in a fiercely committed performance that has echoes of her career. This is truly unprecedented territory for Moore, however. Although Moore’s physical transformation is bound to be the main takeaway, her best scene finds Elizabeth in front of her mirror. As glamorous as she looks, no amount of makeup will leave Elizabeth satisfied.
The Substance belongs just as much to Margaret Qualley as a character who becomes intertwined with Elizabeth. Qualley’s Sue is the shiny new starlet who overshadows her predecessor. While Qualley’s casting is clever given her recent breakthrough, this role is beyond anything she’s done before. This includes her surreal appearance in Kinds of Kindness. Dennis Quaid also has a ball as the cartoonishly sleazy network head who gives Elizabeth the boot. He’s the kind of SOB who will use a public restroom, not wash his hands, and then fork down a bowl of shrimp. If he gives you a present with reindeer wrapping paper in May, you’d better believe it’s a Christmas re-gift.
The Substance raises numerous questions that are never answered. Who created the Substance? Why are they giving it away for free? When did exercise TV shows come back in fashion? When did one character suddenly become a construction expert, installing a new room without any help? The answers don’t matter. If anything, they would take away from the dreamlike descent into madness. As over-the-top as The Substance gets, the story and characters are incredibly simple. For some, they might be too simple. In another film, I might argue that the symbolism and dialogue are on the nose. A movie like this was never going to be subtle, however. Fargeat goes for broke, and the results are priceless.
Given the Academy’s bias toward this genre, Moore’s transcendent performance could go overlooked beyond the critic awards (and maybe the Indie Spirits depending on the budget). The Substance deserves to break through across the board, though, from the hard-hitting sound design to Raffertie’s heart-pounding score. The makeup effects, in particular, are a revelation of originality and gore. Just when the audience thinks that they’ve seen the most grotesque creature, the makeup team fashions a new horror icon in a finale for the ages. It’s sickening, unhinged, and emotionally draining. So is the business that Elizabeth has sacrificed her body to.